Romania 2026

This was a two-week driving holiday around Romania, starting in Bucharest before continuing to Târgoviște, Bran Castle, Brașov, Prejmer, Bușteni, Peleș Castle, Alba Iulia, Turda, the monasteries of Bucovina, and finally Iași.

We flew with Qantas via Singapore and were treated to some spectacular views from above.

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Our first day in Bucharest was 1 June, which is both International Children’s Day (a national holiday) and the religious holiday of Sfânta Treime (Holy Trinity). As a result, the capital was unusually quiet. We spent four days exploring Bucharest, enjoying its many attractions, grand architecture, and quirky interiors.

The Uber experience was… different. Standard (Comfort) Uber drivers regularly refused bookings for more than two passengers. We tried booking Uber XL, but there were very few available, resulting in long wait times. The only Uber XL we managed to get wasn’t a great experience either, as the car reeked of cigarette smoke. In the end, we usually made two separate Uber bookings to accommodate the four of us.

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Our first stop in the city centre was Cișmigiu Park, which was lovely. Apparently it was restored last year after the election of a new mayor, as it had become quite run down. We found it a pleasure to stroll through, and plenty of other people were out enjoying the sunshine.

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More than 36 years have passed since the Romanian Revolution of December 1989. Although we were quite young at the time, we still remember those events vividly. Throughout Bucharest there are reminders of what happened during those dramatic five days.

The first was near Sala Dalles, where a memorial commemorates those who were shot or crushed by army tanks during the revolution.

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The Revolution Square is not only the place where Ceausescu tried to deliver what was to be his last speech, but is also home to a statue of Iuliu Maniu and to the Memorial of Rebirth (aka the Memorial to the Heroes of the 1989 Revolution).

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La Mita Biciclista is an interesting place to visit for its beautiful building and unique ambience, rather than for the food itself. Mita Biciclista (“Mita the Bike Rider”) was a courtesan of King Ferdinand I of Romania, who gifted her this house. She was one of the first women to ride a bicycle in Bucharest, which earned her the nickname.

The building has been beautifully restored, and they serve some unusual ice cream flavours, including linden, elderflower, and raspberry with thyme. They also make an excellent matcha latte, and their cakes looked delicious.

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Across the road from La Mita Biciclista is Amzei Church, which is well worth a visit for both its fascinating history and its distinctive architectural features.

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Whether you speak Romanian or not, the Cărturești bookshops are always worth a visit. They stock books in several languages, as well as stationery, board games, teas, and tea accessories. The buildings that house them are often destinations in their own right.

We spent a whole afternoon at Cărturești Carusel browsing books and enjoying a few drinks.

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Stavropoleos Church and Monastery is a tranquil oasis in the Old City and definitely worth visiting. It was built in the 1700s and, despite its small size, its interior is richly decorated, has intricate stone carvings, and a peaceful courtyard lined with ancient tombstones.

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The National Village Museum (Muzeul Satului) is an amazing place to visit in Bucharest, to get an idea and even some deeper understanding about the way houses were (and still are) built around the country. We got a bit of a taste of old Romania when we got there, as the lady at the entrance was somewhat grumpy and reluctant to sell us a map, advising us to take a photo of the map board outside instead! Also, the first house that we went to, the guy who was supposed there arrived shortly after us and started whingeing how stupid it is that the museum opens at 9 am but they’re only supposed to be there and open the individual houses at 9:30 am and then proceeded to ignore us and make a personal phone call to organise some personal business and telling the other person what his museum days were.

The museum itself though is very nicely done and all four of us thoroughly enjoyed it, with the various houses, small churches, resident cats and colourful flowers that making it a worthwhile experience.

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The Kretzulescu Church is another historic landmark well worth a visit. It was built in the early 1700s and, at the time, stood on the outskirts of Bucharest, right next to the entrance to Podul Mogoșoaiei (later renamed Calea Victoriei, as it is still known today). Despite its name, there was no actual bridge. The road was constructed from wooden planks laid over marshy ground, allowing people and carts to pass through the otherwise boggy terrain. An inn once stood beside the church, providing accommodation for travellers, but it no longer exists.

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Our next destination was the Romanian Athenaeum, where we joined a guided tour of the interior. What an amazing experience that was! We arrived a little early and had time to watch a group of young people having their end-of-year photos taken on the front steps.

Our guide, Lana, was very smartly (and colourfully) dressed. She was articulate, passionate about her work, and deeply knowledgeable about Romania’s history, music, and the composers she spoke about. Originally from the Republic of Moldova, she normally works for one of the art auction houses in Bucharest.

She took us straight into the main auditorium, where members of the orchestra were rehearsing. The acoustics in the hall were simply wonderful. We learned the story behind “Dați un leu pentru Ateneu” (“Give a leu for the Athenaeum”) and how it became a folk song that George Enescu later incorporated into his Romanian Rhapsody. We also learned about the history mural and how its final section was altered during the communist era, replacing the last two kings—fortunately not with an image of Ceaușescu.

We finished the tour outside the building, where Lana shared a few more stories beside the statue of Mihai Eminescu.

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We went on a guided tour of the Palace of Parliament (Palatul Parlamentului), also known as Casa Poporului. Despite the building’s grim history, the tour was very good, and the front gardens filled with roses were beautiful.

Our guide had a dry, slightly cynical sense of humour, which made the visit even more engaging. We learned that all the materials used in the building are Romanian, and that furniture, carpets, and other fittings were also produced locally. The crystal chandeliers were made at the Mediaș glassworks, and the marble came from Rușchita. The carpets were gifted to Ceaușescu by the Shah of Iran, while some of the wooden elements were made from mahogany gifted by Congo’s Mobutu Sese Seko, who was a close ally of Ceaușescu.

It was the second time we had visited, and the building’s brutal, cold grandeur impressed us once again. On leaving, we were reminded—subtly—of how much it is about appearance: even the marble walkway around the building has loose slabs that shift slightly as you step on them.

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We walked around the hill from the Palace of Parliament, and the Catedrala Mântuirii Neamului (National Cathedral of Romania) gradually came into view — another imposing structure located on the same Dealul Spirii (Spirea’s Hill).

We could only view the cathedral from the outside, as it is not yet finished. It is an enormous, rather overwhelming complex: a vast expanse of concrete with very little greenery, no grass, and no flowers. Even the portable toilets we attempted to use were almost full to the brim.

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The visit to Casa Ceaușescu was fascinating. Each of their three children had their own suite or apartment. The bathroom taps are gilded, and so are the tiles in their ensuite bathrooms.

Nicolae Ceaușescu loved peacocks, so not only are there live birds (descendants of those that once roamed the grounds while the Ceaușescus were still alive), but peacock motifs appear throughout much of the décor.

The house also features a lap swimming pool with a wave machine, as well as a greenhouse for winter use, when it was too cold to relax in the outdoor garden. It is a striking display of opulence and waste, and a stark contrast to how most other Romanians lived at the time.

The surrounding streets are home to several impressive large houses and institutions, including the Kuwaiti Embassy, all located right next to Ceaușescu’s residence.

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From Bucharest, we drove to Bran Castle via Târgoviște and the scenic Rucăr–Bran mountain pass.

Târgoviște is one of Romania’s oldest historic cities and was once the capital of the Principality of Wallachia. We visited the impressive Princely Court (Curtea Domnească) and the iconic Chindia Tower, both closely associated with Vlad Țepeș (Vlad the Impaler), the 15th-century ruler who inspired the Dracula legend.

We had the pleasant surprise of receiving free entry, as it coincided with a week of celebrations for Dâmbovița County. The visit was very enjoyable and interesting, with plenty of school groups around. I was particularly struck by a young girl who kindly warned me after I missed a step and rolled my ankle. I was equally impressed by a teacher who insisted I not step aside to let the children pass, explaining that they needed to learn to wait their turn.

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We climbed the observation tower and were rewarded with beautiful views over the surrounding valleys and mountains.

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From Târgoviște, we drove through the scenic Rucăr–Bran Pass, enjoying spectacular views across the valley from the highest point.

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Just before reaching Bran, we took a narrow, winding road down to visit Cheile Dâmbovicioarei (Dâmbovicioara Gorge), an impressive limestone gorge, before retracing our route back up to the main road and continuing on to Bran.

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We arrived at Bran Castle just in time for our 4 pm booked tour. This was one place where we experienced some traditional Romanian unpleasantness. At the entrance to both the gardens and the castle, there were two different staff members who were quite rude in the way they asked for tickets and in the comments they made about not having them ready or not standing in line properly. It was extremely busy, with lots of tourists, mainly foreigners. Still, despite the unpleasantness and the crowds, it was a very interesting place to visit.

I hadn’t realised just how old the castle was. It was built in the 1200s by the Teutonic Knights, who were later expelled from the Kingdom of Hungary by the king. It was then maintained by the people of Brașov and served as a customs post. Vlad Țepeș did indeed use it briefly while planning the defence against the Ottoman forces advancing towards Transylvania.

After the First World War, the city of Brașov gifted the castle to Queen Maria. She later passed it on to her daughter, Princess Ileana, who oversaw its renovation and modernisation.

The visit itself was excellent. The displays, rooms, and their descriptions were very well presented, as were the AI-enacted stories and historical characters. We particularly enjoyed the panoramic view from the roof balcony and the map identifying the surrounding buildings.

We also learned that Queen Maria’s heart was kept here for several years after Princess Ileana brought it from her mother’s favourite residence, Balchik Palace in present-day Bulgaria.

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On our first evening in Brașov, we walked past the Black Church, through Piața Sfatului, and had dinner at La Ceaun. Afterwards, we browsed the market stalls in Piața Sfatului. The atmosphere was lovely, and we enjoyed walking back to our accommodation. We got to listen to an organ concert and visit the Black Church the following day.

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There are quite a few fortified churches around Brașov. We visited the one in Prejmer, which is one of the best preserved. Built by the Teutonic Knights in the early 13th century and later expanded by the local Saxon community, it was designed to protect the village from frequent invasions. The massive defensive walls, complete with hundreds of small storage and living rooms where villagers could shelter during attacks, were fascinating to explore. Walking through the narrow passages and climbing the wooden staircases gave us a real sense of what life must have been like in medieval times. It is a remarkably well-preserved site.

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The next destination was the Bușteni resort, where we took the cable car up to Babele. Near the entrance to the cable car, there was a rather arrogant man trying to sell us tickets for his tours. The cable car journey itself was quite pleasant, although it was raining once we reached higher altitude.

Near the Sphinx, there were a few “descendants of the Free Dacians” who hadn’t noticed the barrier chain and had to find another way to reach their perfect meditation spot on the other side, in order to absorb all the sacred energy.

On the way back from the Sphinx to the cable car, we came across a fox that didn’t seem at all afraid of people.

The cable car ride down was even more exciting, as after each support tower the cabin would drop slightly, creating a brief roller-coaster feeling.

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The next destination was Peles Castle. The drive was nice, through all the resorts, albeit quite busy. When we got there we had to wait for almost one hour to get in (we had tickets for a time interval, but so did many other people).

This was another interesting place, full of history and artefacts. It was the first building in Romania to have central heating and electricity. Interestingly it has been given back to the royal family but it is still the Romanian state running and maintaining it.

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The drive to Alba Iulia was quite picturesque, and we saw lots of storks — almost a nest on every power pole, with some containing three or four chicks.

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The first thing we saw in Alba Iulia was the changing of the guard. First, a guide came out and explained what would happen. It is essentially a re-enactment of a ceremony that took place in the 18th century, when a unit of the Austrian army was stationed here.

There were quite a few schoolchildren watching, and it was a pleasant experience. We followed the “guards” as they marched from the gate to the other end of the citadel, where the actual changing of the guard took place.

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Once we finished watching the ceremony, we took a small train tour inside the inner walls of the citadel. It was an amazing experience, and the guide was very knowledgeable.

We learned that the site developed in three main stages. First, it was a Roman fortress, home to the legion stationed at Apulum. Later, it became a medieval fortress known as Bălgrad (meaning “white fortress,” named for the pale colour of the stone used in its construction). Finally, it was transformed into the citadel we see today under Charles VI of Austria in the 18th century, which is where the name Alba Carolina comes from.

During the communist period, it continued to be used as army barracks, before falling into disrepair until it was restored in recent years.

The guide showed us the three defensive walls, the various gates, and the seven bastions, the star shape making the fortress easier to defend.

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We had lunch at Pub 13, which was very nice. Inside the building is a historic gate that Mihai Viteazul passed through when he came to reconquer the area from Andrew Bathory, who was allied with the Ottomans.

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We got our step count up walking around Alba Iulia. We saw some of the Roman ruins from a distance, visited the two cathedrals (the Catholic one, which was built first, and the Orthodox one, built in 1922 and which hosted the coronation of Ferdinand I as the first king of united Romania).

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We also visited the Muzeul Principilor, where we learned a lot about Queen Isabella and the history of Transylvania.

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The Unification Museum was equally interesting — it contains a copy of the declaration of war by Ferdinand I when Romania entered World War I, the desk on which the declaration of independence was signed, and various photos and information from 1919, when Romanian troops entered Budapest during the conflict with Communist Hungary.

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After finishing this visit, we went to the Principia / Roman Museum, which was again a great experience. They showed us an AI-enhanced documentary about the Romans in the area. We saw ruins with the ancient underfloor ventilation / heating system still visible, and outside we could trace the main road of the Roman settlement, which is still clearly identifiable today.

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A visit to Turda Salt Mine was equally relaxing and refreshing. The cool, mineral-rich atmosphere underground combined with the bright but playful human activities (table tennis, mini golf, playground, boats available to row) made the two hours we spent underground feel like a couple of minutes.

The mine was already being exploited in Roman times, when salt was one of the key resources the Romans sought after following their conquest of Dacia in 106 AD. Turda later remained an important centre of salt production during the Austro-Hungarian Empire and continues to be associated with salt production today.

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We got to visit the farmers market in Turda as well – yummy, fresh cherries, strawberries and sour cherries!

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One of the highlights of this trip was simply driving the winding roads, where every turn seemed to reveal a new landscape. We passed through Roșia Montană, a tiny village set in a picturesque location in an area rich in gold deposits that have at times attracted unwanted attention.

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From Abrud, we followed the Transapuseana (DJ107I) Route, an unforgettable drive with smooth roads and sweeping mountain views that made the journey itself feel like the destination.

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Once in Aiud, we took a detour to visit Mănăstirea Râmeț. The monastery is set in a beautiful location, surrounded by mountains and peaceful gardens filled with flowers. We arrived during the evening religious service, which was taking place in the old church while the newer one was under renovation.

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Here is a short video filmed while driving around this part of Romania

From Alba Iulia, we drove via Cluj-Napoca, Bistrița, Pasul Tihuța and Vatra Dornei before reaching Ciocănești, where we visited the Village Museum and the Museum of Painted Eggs.

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We learned that the entire village of Ciocănești is a UNESCO-listed heritage site. When a new house is built, the owners receive financial assistance from the local council to complete the traditional exterior decorations within five years.

The tradition is said to have begun with a housewife who wanted to decorate her home using the same geometric patterns she embroidered onto traditional blouses. Even today, each homeowner chooses the design they want and provides the template to the craftsman. The decorations are created using a special mixture of concrete and gypsum, which is carefully sculpted before it fully hardens.

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The Museum of Painted Eggs was interesting as well. The guide explained how they make them, using wax to protect the colours as they’re being applied.

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We drove along part of the Transrarău Road before walking to Pietrele Doamnei, a place that brought back many childhood memories. We had visited these impressive rock formations several times as children, long before the road existed and reaching them required a much longer hike.

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The Voroneț Monastery was one of the photographic highlights of our journey through Bucovina. Built in 1488, it is renowned for its magnificent exterior frescoes and the extraordinary shade known as “Voroneț Blue”. The monastery’s walls are covered with detailed biblical scenes, the most impressive being the dramatic Last Judgment painted across the western façade. The rich blue frescoes stand out brilliantly against the green lawns, colourful flower beds and surrounding woodland, making it a wonderful place to linger with a camera.

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The Moldovița Monastery is another one of Bucovina’s painted monasteries. Built a bit later than Voroneț, in 1532, its frescoes are a mix of deep reds, blues and ochres bringing (more) biblical scenes to life across the sunlit walls.

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Between Moldovița and Sucevița, the road climbs over the Palma Pass, a quiet and scenic route that feels like a hidden connector between two of Bucovina’s most famous painted monasteries. The occasional clearings that open up to sweeping views of the surrounding mountains and valleys are unfortunately being filled with various “touristic attractions”.

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Sucevița Monastery is another one of Bucovina’s painted monasteries, known not only for its exterior frescoes but also its fortress-like setting. Its walls depict the famous “Ladder of Virtues”.

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We visited Marginea, a small village in Bucovina known for its distinctive tradition of black ceramics. The pottery is made using local clay and fired in a reducing atmosphere, which gives it its characteristic deep black colour and subtle metallic sheen. We watched one of the local potters in a workshop shaping a vase by hand on the wheel.

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Our visit to Iași wouldn’t have been complete without seeing Ciurea, a suburb on the outskirts of Iași. Historically, it’s been a working-class area on the edge of the city, and more recently it is becoming quite popular with those who chose to build a house into a more affordable area. One of its most distinctive and sensitive parts is the Zanea area, where Roma communities have lived for decades, shaping both the culture and the reputation of the commune.

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In Iași we walked around the city to see what has changed since our last visit

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and spent a bit more time inside the University.

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And this was our trip to Romania with all its colourful and tasty foods and wonderful creatures.

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The airport in Bucharest was fairly busy the morning of our departure. We flew via London again, so got to see the Carpathians from up high and admired some British greenery in between thee clouds.

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